February 2006
After passing through Morocco, Western Sahara and Mauritania, last night we arrived in Saint Louis, Senegal, Cities' to 260 km north of the capital Dakar, which will visit in coming days.
A journey that, to date, very few campers were able to do, yet non-existent due to the newly paved road about 500 km, linking Nouakchott to Nouadhibou, Mauritania's capital, and finally the road 'was inaugurated and opened only a few months ago (November 2005).
The entire route to reach so far, and 'was perhaps too adventurous, but mostly exciting reality in crossing' s so different from ours in which living human beings just like us, but, unlike us, they live in environments and significantly degrading conditions, and sometimes I would say unbelievable.
Of the 4 teams of campers that we were Italians, two of them, and we have not thought about whether to pursue are more felt, scared, possibly from having heard that another camper had almost been "hijacked" (his words verbatim) with his wife, to alleged "robbers" Mauritanians, after being in the desert by means failure due to water in oil (I personally think that there was no "kidnapping" and that "someone" has refused to pay those to whom he turned, thinking potergli repair the camper with a Common Rail Diesel engine .... and with which 'hard enough in the wilderness, able to restart, having water in the fuel.
fact is that in telling him about, he continued to make "psychological terrorism" in all who had the misfortune to listen.
the end only a crew of three, decided to go with me to Senegal, Alberto and Carmen.
the border mauro / Senegalese Red " we risked more 'times to cover up (the area known as "customs" Mauritania was made of sand .. .. sic!) Finally, ferried over the border and the Senegal River for more than 50 km the road was full of dangerous holes that sometimes like small craters and, moreover, obliged to follow it even in darkness, 'cause in this notorious customs of Senegal ("black beast" of all European hikers in Africa, described by many as "extortionists" of that unfortunate' cross) being no "rejected" the ritual of the "rich" cadeau harassed us, "forgetting" almost on us and return the passports to 22.00 (just ... the dark). In these cases, "calm and determination" should be the "flags" to trust, in order to overcome more 'easily all the "bumps" ... while not forgetting to have fun, finding the inevitable comedic sides of the story.
And now here we are, where I'm writing and that means 'Dior Hotel Saint Louis in Senegal (2 ^ City' and former capital of this country) ... which also serves as Camping, even with the internet cafe 'in order to communicate with Italy. What we wanted more?
Unfortunately here in Africa (not only) if you travel with your vehicle to cross the border, you are, almost always asked the famous "bakshik" or if you want to "cadeau" and that, as long as' small (max 5 / 10 €), could also be granted, but sometimes (quite frequently) are specious quibbles to the medium or documents or carrying things (in practice excuses ...) to be able to do a lot of requests for more 'heavy 300 or € 400 per person or crew, for the sole reason to put a stamp and authorized to enter (or exit) in the country, (something which would have no right, but the strong currency .. ..) and forcing them, in some cases, even to go back and unfortunately, all this "Red", in Senegal and 'widespread practice. And to think that as tourists, we take even a minimum "wealth", which certainly goes to benefit their economies.
Mah!?! valleys to understand.
... And is not 'over. Along about 130 km from the border, we have brought in Saint Louis, at various checkpoints on average every 20-30 miles, but "you understood" to put in the hands of the militia on duty, some "euro", you were thorough examination of passport, documents, lights, turn signals, brakes, fire extinguishers, triangles, rubber and most people 'has more' and so forth .. (we were subjected to 3 different controls! .. But we have not capitulated. . ehehhhh!)
in the deplorable situation must "find" something wrong, or missing some equipment on board, requests for "fine" set of numbers very high, (so 'they can better "bargain").
In these cases, be calm, firm and determined and, with a smile, "resist" ahahhhhh!
Should you really find fault in, any contract the fine, but pay no stories, but asking 'regular (and legal) received.
Fortunately for us, could not be "cling" to any alleged "failure" of the medium, my being a "youngster" of just 7 months and that of Alberto as well.
The 'comic' side of the story and ' that, while our new media, were subjected to "control", passing on the road, so cars 'crumbling, but so' shredding it worse, we never thought could exist: those with no lights, no other fender, turn signals even talking about it, almost all overloaded with people and animals .... There was laughter from scompisciarsi ..
For supplies and the means to ensure that together with the oil there could also be water, we have "invented", having nothing else, the empirical test box (or bottle ...) get paid first 2 / 3 liters of heating oil in transparent plastic bottles (mineral water ones) then let under the sun for more 'than half an hour and if the split takes place (chemical) water / fuel oil, we approach the column to fill, or else .. nisba .. and set off to search for other stations more 'safe. Normally
pero 'service areas with the trademark of' known oil companies (Total, Chevron, Esso, Shell etc.. Etc..) In which many local car, refueling, are mostly free from risk "water."
Sorry if I make any mistakes, but I write in this internet-point in front of a keyboard Senegal / Arabic and the keys for punctuation, should try very calmly, but many 'missing ... ... ehehehhhhh
Now term and to make you a bit 'of envy, told you that there were almost 35gradi here today and tomorrow is expected 36.
We are all well and think you may be also for the days to come.
Finally .. I recommend: hold on by biting cold Europe, at least until our return in April.
A "Hello" to all ... dall'Afrique! Michael & Anita
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February 2006
After visiting Saint Louis with its ancient, massive iron bridges linking the city 'of the delta, with a guide we have entered in the Wildlife Reserve "Gueumbeul" (remember that the Senegal' was the first African state in 1987, to enter the Berne Convention, particularly important for migratory birds. In fact, this state, includes a 4 World Heritage: the National Park Bird Djoudj; the island of Goree '; the Niokolo-Koba National Park and the same old town' of Saint Louis, with the adjacent National Park de la "Langue de Barbarie") are then left for Dakar.
Along the approximately 260 km that separated us from the capital, we visited the Zebra Bar, a camping oasis along the river, a reference point for almost all 4x4 vehicles, crossing Africa, managed by Europeans and about 150 km from the capital, while we were in stop and enjoy the magnificent, giant baobab trees, we have seen, a few dozen yards from us, a real scene from the African savannah.
A large flock of vultures, finished circling above our heads, and 'rash on the carcass of a poor beast (donkey? Cow?) Died in a land not far from the street scene and on which we have largely reproduced the violent "scrambled" for dominance, unleashed one of the clumsy birds, to secure a substantial "caught" in the belly of the beast now rotten. In no time at all, the scavengers had lavishly made "breakfast".
resuming our journey, we arrived in the city 'Thiès, with a visit to Camping "Gilbert", but arrived at the gate, we have discovered that the entrance was too narrow for our campers and we were forced to go to Dakar, but decided' not to enter in the chaotic city 'with our means, but to head south along the coast, stopping in the village of Toubab Dialao.
The next day, after having "contracted" a taxi, Ba Tierno, the friend who hosted us and the night before we had cooked a pizza Senegal, in the room of his friend, we went on board a battered Mercedes, at a time of Dakar, to board and get to the island of Goree '.
Once on the island, with strong emotion, we visited the famous "Maison d'Esclaves" in which its director, the now famous "Yo nday" dressed in his green djellaba, entertained us, telling us the agony of more than 10 million slaves deported.
After the visit, we returned to Dakar, visiting the city '.
The next day we left for M'Bour, Cities' to about 100 km south of Dakar, traveling along the coast to visit various villages that follow along the coast, as somone, Popenguine, Saly, and others.
few days later we came back into Mauritania by where I'm writing.
Here we have "camped" ... oh God ... so to speak - on Ocean Beach in an enchanting location in the morning where there are breathtaking sunrises and sunsets in the evening we see poignant and beautiful as the sky turns red fire with camels and Tuareg who stand to gently 'horizon, creating that effect postcard that we often admired in photo albums.
a silence broken only by the strong wind that sometimes blows from the Sahara.
The lagoon which surrounds us, fills often pelicans, herons, flamingos, waders and many other species of migratory birds and we also have to do bird watching with the utmost discretion not to disturb them in their range and armed with video and photo taking aim to capture the take-off or landing ordered flocks of "flamenco" (flamingos) and stretch their magnificent and elegant wingspan.
We are also blacks that are the envy because, while being end of February, here in the daytime you touch 31-32 degrees and the heat increases more and more ', let alone summer' s what I can 'be there.
The night, however, the temperature can drop even 15 degrees.
now terms, hoping to have done "virtually" feel to you, in the gray northern Italy, our real hot here sometimes, and 'very much.
abandon even a short fall in the Western Sahara to Mauritania and then Morocco;
We still have to travel some 2500 km to reach Tangier.
few days ago we had a little problem with the water pump motor homes but less than 24 hours DHL has done it delivered to Nouakchott, the capital of Mauritania and now it 's all OK.
Sorry for the punctuation, but they are always in constant struggle with the keyboard, this time Arab and Mauritania, whose letters on the keys was no longer 'and you have to guess the right key.
I wanted to add eventually, always on the theme of "envy" that here we see the fishing lulu would be our bass / bass, croakers and large lobsters of 30-plus kg and our diet is now just a fish.
Well 's late, hello again and always keep hard, especially for those who work, while we, here, we do our best to "drown" in the oblivion of idleness.
Viva l'Afrique! Michael & Anita
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March 2006
During the transfer from Nouakchott to Nouadhibou in Mauritania, we walked about 500 km and a fearsome storm raged from the desert sand to the ocean that we do not deny us a bit worried 'in having to overcome large dunes that accumulated along the way and admit that our camper outrun 'but with great effort, considering that the environment was like out of the Po Valley, when it 'fog with visibility very low, which will remain indelible experiences and that we have documented.
Friday, March 3rd we came from Mauritania, but not without "defend" the border by two officers, not knowing what pretext to invent to earn a "loaf" ehehehhhh! have begun to say that the bank receipts of the changes made in their country were not official documents (?) and no obvious threat to get us out of the country.
Too bad for them that instead of being in his pocket some Ouguia (their currency) on the sly, they have to get some 'big voice on our part, to the absurd, as it was unexpected challenge, but in return has allowed to leave unharmed.
Here, however, is routine and there if you do .... indeed at times is almost fun because we know that, as often done in Senegal, we always try.
Abandoned then Mauritania, we followed the famous 4 km of track called "No Man's Land" (No Man's Land) with many dangerous mines, scattered here and there and we came back in Western Sahara (ie Morocco) directing at Bir Guendouz for repeat supply of diesel and water and reuniting the two friends that if the campers had heard later on this wonderful adventure (but have 'admitted that, in retrospect, they were very sorry for not coming). Together we
decided to make the approximately 20 km of track to reach Cap Barbas (also called Rock Chico, memory of the English) where a resident fishing communities specializing in lobster fishing, fishing Unfortunately, this starts from mid-April onwards and we had to settle for normal sea bream and sea bream to 2 euro per kilo;
few days after staging a Rock Chico, we recrossed the trail ondulee tole ', very bumpy (luckily that our resources have been heroic in the "resistance" to the harsh treatment which submit them, with the only "incident" to the Ford Rimor Gero of his that is badly silted up and we had to call a tractor because the fishermen with shovels and sand guard plates could not pull it off (take a scooter behind and 'sometimes providential).
Last but not least, or is it better to say .. bad luck at least ... after about 10 days, I break even the second water pump speditami Hymer dealer via DHL in the Mauritanian capital, now traveling with a "pump" of a few euro, given to me by 'friend Alberto, who is doing
Miracles .. Unfortunately, these trips may face no longer enough to have one spare sic! .... equip us for the future, but this' believe me does not mean anything to the charm of the adventure the first time ... Indeed the position of greater commitment.
Sharing from Cap Barbas and back to north, we stopped again at Dakhla 'also' cause the desert wind began to blow with greater intensity and wanted to reach a place famous for making supplies of essential items as our stocks were exhausted.
After spending about eight days in Dakhla and under the auspices of another sand storm we began the ascent for another 500 km ... but .... Now it 's an hour and a half I do in the war in Moroccan Arabic with this keyboard and would like to end this Internet Point.
Finally before closing and you always a bit 'of anger, I add only that we have now exceeded 2 months in Africa, we are at about 1500 km from Tangier, today is 21 March, which came in the spring, but here the heat is already 'in our July .. ehehhhh ....
course for us Europeans .... while locals still travel with the "djellaba", their coat that acts as a coat. In fact, look at us, in costume, as we look at the Finn who is a swim in our seas in April.
hug you all. W
l'Afrique
Michael and Anita
Now click here to watch the video of our trip.
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