Jan / Feb / Mar / April 2010 This
our return campers in the Middle East, after 2 years (see on this very blog on the clipboard: Syria-Jordan-Egypt 2008) to spend the usual 3 months' wintering 'and' matured not only a pleasant memory of the previous trip, but more importantly, the desire to travel back and relax in the warm turquoise waters of the Red Sea and revisit the return, only some of the places that were particularly liked, Petra and Wadi Rum in Jordan, the famous Canyon "Coloured" in Egypt
(Double click to enlarge)
and some minor site in Syria, which Ebla and Maluula (the only place on earth where, and 'been stated, they still speak Aramaic, that' the language spoken by Jesus Christ).
For the rest, we want to spend about three months just to relax, baths, pure and simple "bask" in the sun, given the intense cold that gripped this year it seems like the whole of Italy.
afford the trip alone, but did not find other friends campers available (.... Almost all oriented to return to Morocco) and not at all discouraged by the daily bombardment of bad news that my mother and aunt Rai Mediaset, thrown on us, on so-called "Islamic threat" beyond that the benevolent "deterrence" of friends and acquaintances that we have repeated in disbelief: "alone? But you are crazy !!!!, one morning in early January, after having registered with our Ministry of Foreign Affairs, as usual, and we saw that time we had at will ', we left for Brindisi. Once
pero 'in Pescara at 17 o'clock, about 00, all of a sudden, we started to feel really bad. Violent retching, accompanied by severe abdominal pain that bent in two. A bit 'worried, we have not touched food and very "tired", we went to sleep, thinking you've eaten something (but what?) That we had created these disorders and with the hope that when you wake up. everything would be solved. Waiting in vain. Almost all of the sleepless night we spent with constant and violent "attack" that followed each other repeatedly.
The situation was becoming very "dramatic" and now also decided to break the journey, when at dawn, taking advantage of a moment of "calm" the gut, we went to the Emergency Hospital of Pescara, especially to understand what was happening. Anita, the most 'hit, and' was immediately subjected to a drip, ultrasound and blood tests, I will, starting with the first light of dawn, to feel better, I prefer to stay in motor homes, keeping in touch, however, had it been necessary, by SMS. At about 14.30 pm, I return to Anita, still quite "stunned" that informs me what the doctors had diagnosed: we were "simply" infected with the virus that our beloved grandson Andrew was suffering from a few days and that time of departure (or even a few days earlier) we suppose, by the usual hugs and kisses we had passed.
Reassured by the fact that physically we were "recovering" and reassured by doctors that the duration of flu-like attacks to the abdomen, were on average estimated in 48/72 hours, before we abandon, we decided to continue the journey.
arrive in Brindisi in the late morning the next day, we asked the ticket and immediately made for the first ferry boat to Igoumenitsa. Half an hour later, we were already set sail to Greece.
The entire first floor of the ship, normally dedicated to the Open Deck, was virtually empty and almost everything for us and with the excellent weather conditions on the sea, 'continued our navigation.
At 22 pm, after 8 hours, now Greek, made a brief stop in Corfu ', landed at Igoumenitsa to head in a quiet place to spend the night at last.
At 8.00 am the next morning, the engine running, we took the new highway, and now finally in the whole exercise, from Igoumenitsa port virtually Ankara.
on the pass of Katara in Metsovo, but we 'ran into a violent snow storm that we passed at speed' very moderate and luckily without having to mount chains, however, that we had on board, arriving at about the 16 in the beautiful city 'of Kavala on the Aegean Sea, where the seafront, next to a brand new camper a greek, we've been.
night with chilly wind. Heater on for a few hours early in the morning ..
reaching the border of Ipsala and exceeded the Turkish customs in less than half an hour, We quickly began to travel to Istanbul in time, unfortunately, an incessant rain that forced us to abandon the planned stop to re-visit the city, preferring to continue on the highway and 100 km when using later in a "Alani Servis" (as they call here the service areas) kept, with lots of "security" that is parked in the square all night (other than the Italian, French or English where aggression and 'on the agenda!)
rainy night but no more than 'cold.
Pass Ankara and also giving up a visit to this city 'because of the endless rain, the highway ends and proceed for about 350 km on the road, while being a dual carriageway, and 'consists of a tarmac road with a "grain" big, (typical of many of the roads in Turkey, especially the coast) where the means in addition to pitching for the deformed layer road, also gives off so much noise "background." A
afternoon we got sent enough for an overnight stay in Serefli-Kochis, a village about 1000 meters. high Anatolian plateau, near the salt lake of Golu, in the Service Shell.
In this area, we found that the "station" (goodness' it) also offers a "Wi-Fi" without resorting to the camper has enabled us to surf the internet (now there are many in Turkey (but also in Greece) cafe ', bar, restaurants, service stations, tourist centers, etc.. etc.. to provide free and fast internet connections to navigate and communicate with home and with friends.)
Surprise, the outside temperature at about 1000 meters. high, continues to be pleasantly ... ... lukewarm.
next morning, transfer to Iskenderun (formerly Alexandretta) with another pleasant surprise: the highway that reaches Adana and Gaziantep, southern Turkey, and 'was "stretched" more than 60 km and it' was put in operation long before Pozantı. We hope that in the future quest'arteria be completed and reunited with the one that ends in Ankara, so that, starting from Igoumenitsa, you can practically reach directly the Syrian border, without ever leaving the "Highway". The only "incident" in Turkey and 'the expensive price of diesel fuel that the exchange rate has now reached the tidy sum of nearly 1 euro per liter and a half .. even more' in Italy.
arrive in Iskenderun, downtown in the evening, we tried the restaurant for us we knew a grilled fish, but there is' was told that this place was closed and in fact in its place stands a beautiful "Queen Burgher" stuff to stay away.
On the other hand we have been referred by a "warm" Irish gentleman in shorts, at another restaurant, which also yielded very good and always with free Wi-Fi, by which, between a bite and another, we also chatter with a house.
temperature strangely enough spring, but the sky and copertissimo them 'a little, he began again to rain with thunder and lightning.
the morning bright and early .... so to speak, it was 10.45 ... We reached the border turkish / Syrian Cilvegozu and less than no time we left Turkey, and, after few hundred meters, you enter the Syrian border and and 'just another world.
It 's true, we always receive the utmost courtesy and availability,' but we had to wait almost two hours and a half to complete the red tape practices for the temporary importation of motor homes, the payment of the carnet (for those of us , did not do so in Italy), and the famous tax diesel at a cost of $ 100 per week, the insurance of the vehicle (minimum one month) and other rights or "ammeniccoli" several, with which the end come "lightened "about 180 €, only to pass the 460 km of Syria, from North to South, which, in our case, being direct in Jordan, we traveled almost in one day.
Warning: are on visas for entry into Syria, and '"mandatory" in his own country of origin (consulates in Milan or Rome) and arise in border visas on passports, penalty for refusing.
There 's also to add that the cost of gasoline in Syria,' triplicate. SYP from 7 per gallon in 2008 to 20 pounds today.
still a great price, if you were to pay only that, but coupled with the mandatory tax diesel, for us, has almost passed the Italian cost.
and overnight stop in front of the Town Center in Damascus. A great "mall" to the south of the city ', in which, having always traveled from home, with the help of GPS, we asked a well-equipped computer store and cellular phones, why in many countries, covering GPS, we could not find Syria.
softly and melancholy, as if to apologize, the expert said to us that Syria, unlike almost all other countries in the Middle East, has a survey by road because GPS '"his government has not given the 'permission so that' go ahead. "
temperature continues to be nice and light the stove, just a couple of hours in the morning to warm up the camper before the sun gets up.
day of transfer to reach Aqaba on the Red Sea. Usual, cumbersome Der'a to customs 'and other pennies to pay for out of Syria (now no longer' only 100 Syrian pounds each, but you must always add another 500 pounds to the skull). So after a few hundred meters, you enter Jordan and again the impression of being "almost" in the West, beyond 'the appropriate controls which pass over a "hole" as a mechanic, from which a soldier inspects the bottom of the camper to make sure that there are no weapons, drugs or non-EU (yes, come here!) and then on and you get to customs. Here
practices are much more 'lean and fast. After paying nearly half 'of what you pay in Syria Visa, insurance and rights (and 'clear the mission of this country to encourage more tourism, including one with vr) can continue to your destination.
course, all the documents that are delivered in various borders (insurance, carnet, permits, etc.. Etc.). Jordanians and Syrians that the Egyptians, are all strictly written in Arabic and hand ... We
, while we strive, we fail to understand "one iota" of what 's written, clearly serve only to employees of the border out .... Ahahhhh!! (However, beyond 'our mild irony for those who do not know, there' to emphasize that, if they, we were on holiday with their car, they would receive, at our borders, a well-treated "worse" bureaucratic and costly speaking, to what we receive from them!
We find often around, many of our compatriots who often complain about the costs and bureaucracies of these countries, but totally ignore what we expect from others, if they were entering Italy on a regular basis and for tourism).
In the afternoon we arrive in Aqaba. Jordan has a fast highway about 400 miles, the Desert Highway, which connects north and south.
now we have confirmation that this year the temperature, and 'much more' hot 2 years ago (27/28 bits degrees during the day) and finally we get rid of the "winter clothes" and no longer lit 'the stove at night. (Aqaba and 'almost a degree of latitude, more' south of Agadir and far, from London, we traveled over 4,000 km in 10 days of travel ... and we're not there yet, where we have set.
We believe that until now, this trip is proving better than two years ago, even as regards weather and temperatures.
On the beach in Aqaba we learned about two pairs of campers Italian, Giorgio and Zita and Elio and Gabriella
of whom do not remember ever known before they are here in winter, from November.
On the same beach, we also met two nice French traveler, Sylvain and Francoise, with their cagnoloni (www.tinacoli.com)
with which we are still in contact and that for years, running the world an Iveco 4x4 currently built on their project, from South Africa and directed in Oman. Our
curfew in the city 'to search the next day to get down to "work" and carry out the various practical skills required to enter the land of the Pharaohs. Hot night.
next day, spent for recording the arrival, laundry, supermarket and new jump on the beach, situated about 10 km, where they continue to bask in the sun's Friends campers.
In the evening, our new back in town '. Night increasingly 'hot. We
25 January. We dedicate this day to the delivery of passports for visas at the consulate of Egypt, calls for the Carnet de Passage en Douane (required to enter Egypt withdrawal !!!), clothes from the laundry, currency exchange, dry camper (he deserved it right .. ehehhhh poor ..!) and unfortunately there .. 's time for the beach. Night ... always hot.
The next morning, we went to collect the passports with visas from Egypt (today at 14.30 they had already 'closed). Continue calls for CPD or as they call them the "Triptik" but the manager is not found, seems to be affected ....
the afternoon, finally, having in hand the Carnet, come to greet the pair of campers Italians who remain in Jordan and travel to the port to meet cost and schedule of the ferry. Our evening ends with an invitation to dinner at the house of Tayseer, where his gracious wife, has prepared some tasty specialties' in Jordan. Hot day above 29 degrees and night equally, while in Italy, we learn from Tigga enough that temperatures are below freezing!
At about 14 the next day, we set sail for Egypt, with the fast ferry. Cost of tickets is strongly increased from 2 years now. A / R over 520 € (compared with 400 two years ago). The cost of the so-called "triptick" (the "official" Egyptian) that we have taken, and 'increased, for a single month, from € 380 in 2008 to around € 680 this year, but it is unclear to why. We for Carnet, we spent about 200 €! (but 'a special price,' cause Tayseer thanks to my friend, we got a reasonable discount)
In summary today for a month's vacation to Egypt alone, cost, between Aqaba-Nuweiba ferry triptick +, would exceed € 1200 and ... as they say in these parts .. hunt .. pennies to see ... ... Aahhhhhh camel! Arriving in Nuweiba
even after an hour and 15 minutes by boat.
Ashraf's friend, in about 2 hours, helps us to fill all the incomprehensible, bureaucratic practices, plates, sheets, documents, hieroglyphics ... and most people 'has, more' and so forth (I think even the most 'expert travelers would be able, alone, to see how many dusty offices of the Egyptian customs should turn to complete all the practices necessary to enter this country ... now better understands the phrase, the labors of 7 ... Gitto E!) When the all, we head to the Soft Beach Camp, with Robert, the Dutch rider known on the ship, (married and divorced a Nigerian, that "suffering" to work (yes, I just said so ') has decided to abandon everything and drive away .. that certain types of strange if they meet galore ..) to stay at 5 € per person per night, including breakfast and Wi-Fi (the camper does not pay). Night temperature is warm. Beautiful and hot the next day, spent on the beach of the village, among a group of young tourists / Germans, two Americans in Los Angeles and a Dominican friar, he too German, with whom we made friends. We decide to stay another night in the village.
On 29 January, after breakfast, we Camper Robert salute you and all others and we move to Sharm. We get there around 14 or so and we stopped in the parking lot that already 'knew,' cause we want to go at night to eat the best "pizza" in Old Sharm.
course not 'like the Italian one, but we say that is the best work by these parties. After dinner, we move Hadaba for overnight campers and as if by magic, began to attract the curiosity 'of many of our countrymen (it seems to be some 10,000 Italians living in Sharm) so' make friendship with Angelo, who was also a camper but that 'it and' convert to permanence '(he even two houses!) who invites us to stop for the night before his home in a lovely waterfront location.
From January 30 to February 2, three days of total relaxation, with sun, sea and hot temperature in Sharm the enchanting marine protected area of \u200b\u200bRas Mohammed National Park, where we met Andre 'and Patricia (www.chazel. com)
2 other French around the world for 6 years too, having turned the 5 continents with a Toyota + cell.
Fantastic! Always and only the French and Germans, who are mostly seen around. The best solo travelers, those "tough" to make radical choices in life ..!
admit that the thing I'm really interested ... especially to visit the whole of Africa. . I'm tempted ... but ... we need to 'totally revolutionize the mentality' of the traveling experience, as well as buy half 4x4 fit for purpose .... but the better half 'for now ... we do not feel .. o' .. rather hear us soon! ! We'll see ... for now ... ... .. dream on me crib!!
February 3. Starting over. Stop in El Tur for the visa extension for further 6 months. Continuation and arrival at Ras el Sudr, where we visited the Coptic Christian church building, where we were warmly welcomed, by the large community 'and this bearded "Pope." We
pero 'preferred to go to sleep in the car park adjacent to the Tourist Police. He began to blow a bit 'of wind.
raised to the 9.00 (.. yes, it 's true .. in campers, we love to sleep ..), up to and beyond the Suez tunnel, pointing immediately to the south of Egypt.
Sunny day, but with occasional, strong gusts of wind.
we come and stay overnight in Hurghada in a place other than that two years ago.
February 5. The next morning, it starts to break at the 13 Al Quseir Radisson SAS Resort, 5 star holiday resort in which we allow ourselves a great lunch for only € 12!!
continue the journey and in the afternoon, we stop in the Italian village of "Veratour" but run Egyptian (apparently not ' quite a large village) near Abu Dhabab, which give us the approval to come back in the days following, when we needed it (.. and thank goodness we have not needed .. asking 30 euro per day. . .. just for the parking of the camper! ... Just outside the world) and we continue to salute
Marsa Alam for the night.
stellatissima evening with little wind, so that we could watch TV and know that it snows in Milan.
February 6. Without a full tank of fuel, with a few euro (though 'pure increased in Egypt over two years ago). Purchase
in Marsa, a stick to navigate a month on Vodafone Internet 30 €, all included (in Italy would cost 99 euro!) as Vodafone, according to almost everyone, the operator with more repeaters around the country. The signal, however, 'in some areas of the south, and' too little and sometimes does not permit or allow connection to fatigue.
The next day, we go to the already 'famous Blue Lagoon, the famed resort Settemari, who along with Floriana Dreams, the beautiful 5 star hotel with adjacent beaches, about 20 km south of Marsa Alam, to spend a few days relaxation.
we no longer find 'none of the workers known two years ago. In return we are greeted warmly by Lorenzo, the sporty and very nice young director and his beautiful wife Samira.
The next day we would start again towards the south. ... To explore and Berenice .. At Shalatin .. last resort 'located on the border with Sudan, home to the most' important and well-known camel market in Africa. Uhm ... we'll see.
want to finally spend some time on the beautiful beaches of the south coast of the Red Sea where you can take on the Reef, with occasional shooting and underwater photography. We are told that the wind, tomorrow, should cease or at least diminish.
After a few blissful days of relaxing on beaches and night as well, the others at various villages, with hot days, (lacking the camps themselves, the only structures in Egypt where we can turn our campers, are precisely the resorts, of course, all for a fee), we decide to head south for the Shalatin.
few kilometers before reaching Berenice, cut off at one of the "check-point" Egyptian military, we are just "stuck" because '"it seems" we are not in possession of a "residence ",(?) but above all a" guide "Egyptian on board (2 years ago, this location ', could be achieved peacefully, but now the authorities' claim to a" companion. "Some say after the kidnappings occurred last year in the" Gift El Kebir ", others think that being heard even here the crisis, they want to use their "guide".
ask how and where do anything ', but the military only speak Arabic and having exchanged a few unintelligible sounds "guttural" in a firm, we are resolutely "rejected".
We are therefore forced to go back and having to redo more than 140 km and with us a Dutch couple who had since come behind us, even with a rental car in Al Quseir.
In truth 'very dry we go back again more' to the north and decide to stay on the beaches of the south.
We stop in front of a Centre "Kite" and here we know Paolo, an Italian in Perugia, who converted to Islam, it invites us to stay within the "Camp" , But that 'the other side of the sea and that is' in the desert.
There we go, but we prefer to sleep outside (away from the cursed, inquinantissimi, power generators that run ... alas .. 24 hours on 24, because, down here, 'the government has not yet brought electricity').
After sleeping under a beautiful starry sky, we have long admired his nose upwards, 'the next morning, thank you, goodbye and Paul decide to enter, in a beautiful village "5 stars" from the parts of Berenice.
You know Monica (* name invented for the sake of privacy), the assistant of a tour operator, and you just do not know conosciutici why, in the village tells us immediately that we must say that we knew in Italy.
At our initial state of "disorientation", we mentioned a few objections of opportunity, but insists that she is very keen to say that we are his "friends." Quickly, he tells us his story, and tells us who ', has many brothers and sisters, the name of his mother, what it does, where he lives, where he worked, and other things that "friends" and we must necessarily know, always "misguided" and almost "stuttering" to answer, yeah, yeah, okay, but with some of our modest request to repeat a few things out of haste, we were unable well and were able to store, ns / in spite of the risk of inadvertent contradictions, if we had been called to give some clarification.
In practice, in a few minutes of conversation, we were forced to make a runaway acquisition memory.
Even we, of course, Monica (*) wanted to know some details that deepens his "precarious" knowledge.
In the end, despite some "legitimate" doubt in our hearts, we decide to accept, curious, perhaps (or even) to know how it goes' to finish this strange and unexpected events.
We come, then, immediately submitted to the Director ... ... wow! think .. she does things in great ... and the Director, after having nicely presented, in perfect English, tells us, but how come the "Reception" did not you say you knew .. Monica?
Azz! I think I. .. we got in this mess ... and I feel a bead of sweat I was already 'get down' ... between the buttocks .. Stain ... ... .. no time to finish thinking and ... sweat it .. Monica, immediately replied, but to surprise me .. my dear .. Director And he said: ahhhh! .. how good you were .. I never thought ... and Anita and I, whilst at the wheel "hall" of the resort, we felt some "brividino" cold across the back while throwing fleeting glances of disbelief and circumstance ... as if to say ... but who do have it done!
Director, goodness' her, wanted to finally pay off our "surprise" with an all "free" for over 3 days .. slip back into making more 'total embarrassment ... (.. I saw that I almost kicked Anita' cause that would pagassimo, and "Monica", on the other hand, there smirks and invited us to accept .. and I in the midst, like a "idiot" that I addressed to the Director and Monica and I tried (perhaps clumsily) to make a slight hint of almost bow in gratitude ... but also to add (really .. In a low voice) .. that was not the case at the end .. we only had a "surprise" and so on .... Nothing to do now so ... 'had been decided.
Last but not least, every day .. Finally, we were also invited to eat at the table together with the Director "Monica" and, let us, with great envy .. (Maybe) real tourists, "paying."
admit however that, despite having spent 3 fabulous days in this beautiful holiday resort, where we have been dedicated to the more 'unexpected' courtesies, we could not wait to escape from this anomalous situation and return to the "nomadic "in the desert, 'cause not we knew to give a plausible answer, as it was happening there.
In the end, whatever were the reasons (maybe for love and / or revenge between the two? Boh! We'll never know! And we do downtown? Mah!) Would like to thank both "Monica" ( Young, beautiful and sweet Italian / Arabic, not Egyptian) and the Director (a young Egyptian graduate and prepared) for this real surprise that they wanted to devote to us, unknown and unconscious Italians. Jump to understand the people of the world ..!
Leaving this amazing, but enjoyable stay, we have to tinker here and there 'for a few days and having a camper that was becoming a "catalyst" We met "Mohammed" the Director of the Wadi Gimal Park, located between Berenice and Hamata, where you can, if you are 'lucky, seeing foxes, nimble gazelles of the desert and other native animals of the protected area.
With this knowledge and having given the Bedouin who worked for the park dismantled some of the clothes we had brought, we were able to enjoy some free days on the enchanting beach of Sharm Luli.
In this beautiful country, control of coasts and beaches throughout the territory, and 'very widespread and is forced with real military garrisons.
For example, over the entire length of the Red Sea, now access to a "free" beach 'is almost a utopia for most campers that' in general for tourists "not Alpitour. It 'obvious that the Egyptian government, want the good 28% of the state budget, caused by tourism, is made exclusively from the "air".
Morocco however, has managed to combine perfectly both traditional tourism and made our plein air in the camper, his flagship.
But here the way we do "holiday" do not know what 'and think, for now, do not want to increase it.
There are, Finally, suitable arrangements to accommodate us, so to speak, camping and / or areas Camper, as we know it in Europe.
To confirm what we say, in some of the many checkpoints, the police approached, disbelief, came to see us move in for only 2 people on half so 'great, unusual for this place and often looked at the length of the camper and stretched to peek inside, asking if we were actually further confirmed in only two on board, their coaches and in tourist travel are accustomed to seeing, even stacked 14 or 15.
Sometimes giggling without us see, 'cause it looked like the scene of that famous film of the late Benigni and Troisi, when the guard said: How are you? Where to Go? What to bring? A forint!
... more ...
rejected and now incapacitated, but not resigned, to be able to reach Al Shalateen over there ', on the border of Sudan about 260 km from Marsa, to see the more' known and famous market of camels in Africa, we relaxed on the most 'beautiful beaches of the Red Sea, strong as ever this year that the temperature and the heat, the current latitude, is touching tips unusual for this period, also known as the premises, with levels reaching up to 34/35 degrees now more 'for 2 weeks and it gets really hard to be in the sun.
The water of the Red Sea and finally 'warm and helps us find cool to immerse in this natural aquarium (TG while the Italians see and hear that in our country, is the only hot ... "quilts" and meteorologists, forecasting more 'dark, the cold will last' longer.
We then passed, by themselves, some days on the beautiful beach of Sharm Luli,
(a paradise, above and below, and 'put it mildly) about 60/70 km south of Marsa Alam, in the company of 2 beautiful white herons at all scared by our presence in the total silence that characterized the scene, kept us company also making plenty of film and photography, with their elegant demeanor, sometimes taking attitudes to be "consumed" actors, in that we even thought if it was the Pro-Loco to issue. Ahhhhhhh!!
We also have some beautiful underwater reef in waters so clear and rich in fauna, mainly due to the fact of being alone and in the absence of other tourists in the sea.
However, being 'tourists' "special" because camper and since these parts for recreational vehicles, I see very few, we are also quite "visible" Awaken and, unfortunately, curiosity' of other tourists those "Alpitour" to be clear, both European and Italian, who fell to ten by the various coaches, come to us and attitude between the "sleep or are awake" to see us alone with a camper in places like 'lost, there's flood questions (in reality 'we, deep down, we laugh even in the thought that someone approached us with this surprise, perhaps wondering if we are sane ... ... ehehhhhh!)
Three days ago,' while we were in fact sprawled in the sun in peace more 'absolute on one of these beautiful beaches, is approaching us at a certain Gott (so' seems to be called) of an Egyptian Diving, calling for a cigarette and offering us a whole package, (Buy a few sticks, just to give away) asks how we could do to reach the Shalateen. Imagine .. just knew we wanted to visit this location, 'and you' activated immediately, saying that he would have thought.
Indeed, shortly after, it gives us' appointment for the following morning at 7, 00 at the diving we knew, adding that he would personally accompany a "his" guide. Wow, we thought .. how lucky to have found him.
Well, the next morning at 8.30 we were traveling with "Momen", nice and polite young man and along with Luke Donald and,
two very nice tourists "Francorosso" the mythical Caldonazzo in the province of Trento, campers, and also as enthusiastic as ever, can one day make a similar journey, known days before the Village of Gorgonia Berenice who traveled 260 km separated us from Al Shalatin.
I had some serious concern that the autonomy of diesel, the tank being filled to ¾ might not be enough to return, after which "voices" had reported that the 500 km of round and go back, there were no supplies and that over there ', to Shalateen, there were only Bedouin Sudanese oil sold in bottles and bottles too dirty.
Uhm! Doubtful .. I still slowed down the speed 'cruise and engaging the "speed cruise control I had settled at 70/80 km / h, and possibly could do to save the return journey, with diesel I had left, if we had not found .
Actually 'Al Shalatin, we found an efficient service area, from which, just arrived, we made full with only about 9 euro!
the various check-point, however, the controls were a bit exhausting and 'poison and I must say that the nice Momen, and if the' fared like a pro. Obviously, the last control of police and 'boarded the camper a military escort which under his hand, we have also dropped 20 Pound (3 €) and very happy, has been with us for the duration.
She took us into the huge market and having "parked" the camper, including camels, we have seen many poor animals immobilized in the leg so that they could not escape, in a nauseating "smell" with a temperature that almost touched the 40 degrees (yes, yes, there were really all!) where we have photographed and filmed and the camels that their "smelly" dealers
which purchases treated with the usual narrow hand and pats on the back. We finally made
also photographed next to them, by good Arabs, squirted "joy" in being able to "tighten" for a few seconds, close to women wearing Western clothes, and you know what it '.. also some "dead hand" was at work ...
(In truth 'uproar among so I tried to "place" Anita in exchange for some camel, but they wanted the camper ... .. Mica fools! Ehehhhhhh!)
These "camel" come almost all from the Sudan and are sold to be taken to Cairo, to the slaughter. Their cost ranges from 400 to 600 € depending on the year and conditions of the beast.
At about 14.30, after exhausting visit to this camp and I did a tour of the Casbah in Sudan (... mamma mia!), Soaked with sweat, we said our "Help" that was arrived ' time to take the way back.
... more ....
In the days following the visit to Al Shalatin, we continued to relax more 'absolute, bringing us daily, alternating on different beaches and free nights at other resorts.
Meanwhile the days passed very pleasantly and the Egyptian month's leave the camper came to an end.
(People can even have an extension of one year 6 +6 months, but no camper, yet only 1 +1)
was posed thus the need to interrupt the "wintering" in the deep south of Egypt and begin the ascent of the Red Sea coast to bring us back the port of entry and the only (after Cairo) authorized to grant the renewal of "passed" to the campers for the second and last month. (We were also told that they could renew Safaga, unfortunately, the information was incorrect.)
Meanwhile, there is a particular and pleasantly "shocked" the text message, which reached by Lorenzo and Samira (the wonderful friends, leaders the "Settemari) that, perhaps concerned that many days, had lost our tracks, we wondered, as we were and where we were.
Two days later, returning from the south, went back to reassure them and enjoy their exquisite hospitality 'and sympathy.
greet these two superlative friends, we wish to publicly thank commiatatici and then by others, such as the Colonels Mrs. Hussein and her husband, owners of a luxury "residence" in Marsa, with an adjoining gourmet restaurant with specialties' Italian, we started up the coast.
To return to Nuweiba, located in the southeast of the Sinai Peninsula, the mile walk, starting from Berenice, there are many, and since about 5 years ago, and 'state eliminated the only ferry carrying cars and even shorten the course of several miles, connecting Hurghada with Sharm, and is' now forced to drive along the coast, up to Suez, cross the tunnel and go straight for the 300/400 km Sinai Peninsula.
You can not 'finally arrive late for the exit from the Egyptian soil or renewal of a permit, or face a daily fine salt for each day of delay.
Based on our standard of travelers, who wish it may do, especially for trips so 'long and exhausting, in which even the simple transfer must' seem a holiday, to reach Nuweiba (1200 miles) we have took three days.
After spending the night at Suez, we have decided to "cut" along the unknown and the Sinai desert road that leads to Taba from Suez, about 360 km long.
sure first that the road was clear and practicable, after the disasters caused by exceptional rainfall of more than 1 month and a half, where whole pieces of asphalt, and sometimes of territory, had been literally picked up and taken away by the Wadi (fiumi.. in Arabic) in full, we started to follow it.
The desert of Sinai, and there 'seemed very bleak. The inhabitants are only a few Bedouins, whose tents, goats and camels, were seen, often in isolated villages not far from the road with only 2, dusty little villages, and El Naqhl Thamada, so atavistic and dilapidated, that through that, it seemed to cross the Desert of the Tartars.
After passing the intersection of the road leading to "Rafah", the well-known border crossing between the Palestinian Gaza and Egypt, scene of recent clashes and deaths, a few kilometers later, arrived in Taba.
Once this small town bordering on Israel, we diverted to Nuweiba with a visit to the port of arrival and initiate new practices for the extension of "passed" to the campers (yes, even if it 'a renewal, the procedures are even more' complicated, but most of all ... more 'expensive .. the first month, which is also a camper powered "diesel" (.. if it were gasoline we only paid one third!)
We have reported that between about 2 to 3 months (question of time ... of course .. .. Egyptian .. we think. .) Parliament of this country should change the "bad law" (bad law) as officers of the customs is called here, for the "Karavan" and in the future, the arrival (perhaps) may have undergone three months of permit .
hope so as to open to tourism for recreational vehicles.
After renewal, stopping a few more days in Nuweiba, we decided to go see the famous Coloured Canyon, "attraction that is located about 30 km away, of which as many as 11 of the track, up and down mountains. We have contracted with the cost Solymar, a Bedouin who, in the morning and 'come and get us to our village with the usual Toyota 4x4 and ubiquitous "guide".
A challenging, but interesting, hiking, in reality, 'and' .. a great hike to take this long, narrow slit that looks like a mountain canyon, where the wind eroding the rock, has created special colored streaks along the walls that characterize the way, with real figures, in which, with a good dose of "imagination" you can 'get to identify camels, eagles and more. Luckily we had worn hiking boots, proven to be very useful when crossing certain points in the Canyon, where, in order to continue, even had to "squeeze" in steep, narrow tunnel.
fact, the scene that has' presented before us, and we had quite the comedian created the momentary good mood. At some point, we saw that could not be more 'to continue. All locked. The large group of tourists ahead of us, totally still. More 'below, but' we felt vocii language in Cyrillic and half-crying, of course, incomprehensible to us that still gave the impression of some difficulty 'to follow on the path.
was a large group of Russian tourists in There was also a woman whose ranks shapes rather "plump" that being stuck in the obligatory close "eye" that allows you to switch from top to bottom on the other side, it was obviously "stuck" between the rocks and could not more 'to "unlock". Approaching, they saw a man, perhaps her husband or another tourist who pulled her to her feet, others under the guise of help, maybe "groped", and others who pushed her head or shoulders and the poor that sometimes launched cries, you could not tell if the pain or pleasure, all shouting and hilarious laughter among all the others who attended the scene.
Fortunately, after some push and pull, the well-fed "matryoshka", and 'finally managed to pass and we have been able to continue and finish the canyon.
The next day we went to Ras Mohammed, the largest Marine Park in the Sinai, about 200 km and spent several good days, including bathing, snorkeling, underwater high definition video footage, racing, trekking, accompanied by very hot days and water temperature close to 27/28 degrees.
Being on our own, no longer parked 'of 10-15 meters from the sea, a beach all to ourselves, a coral reef a few meters, undisturbed water clean and clear ... from everything and everyone .. even the muezzin, in other places, at 5 am .. starts yelling to spread the Koran litany ... ..
Good Game, in addition, the Bedouin good cook, properly booked by phone, come in and delights us, preparing us, a few meters from our camper and colorful shade of a gazebo, the excellent and abundant baked grouper, (he claimed not to fish in the park!) with tasty stewed potatoes and various salads, the bankruptcy figure of 50 Egyptian pounds per person (7 €!).
The only "variant" we were forced to introduce us. While he, as a pious Muslim, we needed water and Coca Cola, we, without attracting attention, remove it from our fresh nectar backpack called "Prosecco di Valdobbiadene" and from time to time, wetted our dry throats. Of course, just to make a better tribute to .. . .. ehehhhhhhh grouper!!
In truth, 'Game,
passing among the tables, throwing fleeting glances at the ... "Prosecco", but there is' always remained the doubt because if you watched' tried to taste it, or if he thought that asking for a glass committing sin against Allah .. Well!?!?
It goes without saying 'the apotheosis that culminated in the evening, when the Tiggo, the churn News icy weather, where the poor Italy under layers of snow and bitter cold resorted to "quilts," more and more 'thick, while we, still in bathing suits, taste the coffee' on the still warm shore.
E 'the case to say the "jokes" latitudes!
of this nice step forward and get the days !!!... .. alas the time to start redoing the ... km, also because 'a little too easy, encouraging rust to his knees.
We then returned to Sharm, to celebrate the birthday of Anita,
guests, this time of the luxurious residence of good friends Leo and Augusta who along with Angel, we, as a joke, nicknamed the "Berlusca" Sinai, we celebrated the birthday of Anita (the usual ... .. ehehhhh 19 years and a half!)
Today March 9th, we are at Nuweiba in a "camp" always a few steps from the beach and tomorrow we would try to do some diving with camera to see what kind of fauna there 'on this reef ... .. wind permitting.
few days we'll sail again to Aqaba, Jordan.
.... More ...
they returned to Jordan, we spent a few days and we left for Aqaba visit the historic Madaba, Jordanian citizenship, Roman outpost, with a high percentage of Christians (almost 1 / 3 of the population).
As originally planned, this trip was planned just to "warm winter and the sea", without excessive demands for attention to more "culture" (.. .. indeed it was not the first time we have these parties, many historical sites in Syria, Jordan and especially Egypt, we have already 'seen several times) .. , Then "tapering" more and more 'day to be home and celebrate Easter with your family, we started was urgent to quickly grind the many km of return, not before But 'he had visited, Maluula, Syria, the village perched on the mountain, about 1600 meters in height (brrrrrr.. !!!!) so cold in which the inhabitants still speak Aramaic, the language spoken by Jesus' . Finally, a brief stop in Hama, to contemplate the giant "Norie" (.. huge wheels, used for collecting water) and so on .. Lathakia, on the Mediterranean, to enjoy the last days of warmth in the Middle East. Finally
.. Turkey, Greece and 1 in April we were at home ....
Final thoughts:
than ever this year, our journey, and 'was characterized by almost summer temperatures, lack of rain, a few days wind and water of the Red Sea really warm climate is ideal for .. winter.
Moving, finally, for the first time camper, alone, we have "rediscovered" the full freedom 'to decide where to go, what to see and what to stay.
reiterate that the "dangers" sleeping "in some places, mainly dwell in the collective, but in probability ', we think that if we had done the same things in our old continent, we run the risk that ce the throat cut more 'easily in Italy, or France or Spain or the rest of Europe.
always hospitable people we met and available.
enrichment that we appreciate more 'and' knowledge and / or 'friendship is established, both with local tourists from other countries, acquiring, sometimes reality' surprising and social conditions very different from ours .
We finally, that the reasons why very few campers Italian, go to "winter" in Jordan and Egypt, in the 3 winter months, are mainly two:
1st - The miles I have a lot to do and not at all like driving.
(the only ship carrying car + passengers from Genoa to Alexandria in Egypt, and 'was removed and Grimaldi, currently, in Salerno - Alexandria, carries only "goods". You could get to Ashdod in Israel, but also costs (plus' of 1200 euro, one-way), you must calculate additional costs in Israel (200/300 euro) and the "seen" Israel that prevents then return many Arab countries. In the analogous
trip in 2008 we did about 18,000 km. This year, more 'or less, 13,000.
2nd - E 'expensive.
It 's almost two and a half, maybe three, more' expensive than going to winter in three months in Morocco, whether you go by Turkey or steps that Libya.
year only to return via transit from Libya and Tunisia, Libyan agency considered more 'moderate' asked us for only three days of "mandatory" accompaniment, something like about 1300 €!
However, we believe that, at least for us, "winter" in Jordan and Egypt, have a "value added" to be found not only in historical and archaeological sites of those places, in the incomparable beauty and usability 'of the Red Sea.
Those interested in knowing more details and / or information, please contact us.
Infinite thanks to those who followed us.
SOME SHORT IN HIGH DEFINITION VIDEO OF THIS TRIP
L'Aquila Seafood Click here
Red Sea 2010 - Mix of underwater video, click here
Snorkeling: everything 'and it will pass below, click here
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